How to Change Rear Brakes on Your 2013 Ford F150 Truck
Changing the rear brakes on your 2013 Ford F150 is a straightforward DIY job that saves you money and keeps your truck stopping safely. This guide walks you through every step, from removing the rear wheels to bleeding the brake lines. You will need basic tools and about two hours to complete the brake replacement.
Changing the rear brakes on a 2013 Ford F150 might seem intimidating at first. But trust me, it is one of the most satisfying DIY jobs you can do on your truck. You do not need a fancy garage or years of mechanic experience. All you need is the right tools, a little patience, and this step-by-step guide.
Your F150 comes with disc brakes on all four corners. The rear brakes include brake pads, rotors, and calipers that work together to slow you down safely. Over time, these parts wear down. When they do, you need to replace them to keep your truck stopping like it should.
Learning how to change rear brakes on 2013 Ford F150 models gives you real value. You save money on labor costs. You gain confidence working on your own vehicle. And you understand your truck better, which helps you spot problems early. Let us walk through the entire process together.
Key Takeaways
- Safety First: Always use jack stands and never rely solely on a floor jack when working under your F150.
- Inspect Everything: Check brake rotors, calipers, and hardware for wear before installing new parts.
- Right Tools Matter: A torque wrench, C-clamp, and lug wrench are essential for a clean brake job.
- Bleed the System: Properly bleeding the brakes ensures safe and firm pedal feel after replacement.
- Save Money: Doing this job yourself can save hundreds compared to a shop visit.
- Replace in Pairs: Always replace both rear brake sides at the same time for balanced stopping power.
📑 Table of Contents
Why Brake Maintenance Matters for Your F150
Brakes are the most important safety system on your truck. Worn brakes increase stopping distance. They can cause dangerous situations on the road. The 2013 Ford F150 uses a solid rear axle with disc brakes. These brakes handle heavy loads and towing, so keeping them in top shape is essential.
Signs Your Rear Brakes Need Attention
Watch for these warning signs that your brake pads or rotors are wearing out:
- Squealing or grinding noises when you apply the brakes
- Longer stopping distances than usual
- Vibration or pulsing through the brake pedal
- Brake pad wear indicator light on the dashboard
- Visible thinning of the brake pads through the wheel spokes
Do not ignore these signs. Driving on worn brakes damages the rotors and compromises your safety. Catching the problem early saves you from more expensive repairs later.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Before you start, gather everything you need. Having all your tools ready keeps the job smooth and frustration-free. Here is what you need for this brake replacement project:
Essential Tools
- Lug wrench or impact wrench for removing wheels
- Jack and jack stands to safely lift the truck
- C-clamp for compressing the caliper piston
- Torque wrench for proper bolt tightening
- Brake cleaner spray to clean brake components
- Wrench set for caliper bolts and slide pins
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Brake bleeder tool or clear tubing
Parts and Materials
- Rear brake pads (ceramic or semi-metallic)
- Brake rotors (if yours are warped or worn)
- Brake hardware kit (clips, shims, and springs)
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4)
- Anti-seize lubricant for sliding pins
Think of your workspace like you would where you place a desk for a project. You want good lighting, a flat surface, and enough room to move around comfortably. Set up your F150 on a level concrete surface with plenty of space behind it.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Rear Brakes
Now let us get into the actual work. Follow these steps carefully and you will have fresh rear brakes on your F150 in no time.
Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle
Park your F150 on a flat, level surface. Engage the parking brake and put the transmission in park. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels before you lift the truck. This prevents the wheels from spinning when you raise the vehicle.
Step 2: Lift the Truck Safely
Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the truck. Place jack stands under the designated lift points. Never work under a truck supported only by a jack. Lower the truck onto the jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it is secure.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
Now fully remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels off. Set them aside. You will now see the brake calipers, rotors, and hardware. Take a photo with your phone before disassembly. This helps you remember how everything fits together.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper
Locate the two caliper mounting bolts on the back of the caliper. Use your wrench to remove them. Carefully pull the caliper off the rotor. Do not let it hang by the brake line. Use a piece of wire or bungee cord to hang it from the spring. This protects the flexible brake line from damage.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket. Notice how they sit in the bracket. Take note of the wear patterns. If one pad is worn more than the other, it could indicate a problem with the caliper sliding pins.
Step 6: Remove the Brake Rotor
The rotor may be stuck due to rust. Spray penetrating oil around the center hub where the bolts are. If it still will not come off, you may need to remove the optional parking brake cable bracket. Some 2013 F150 models have a small bolt holding the rotor in place. Remove it and the rotor should slide right off.
Step 7: Clean and Inspect the Caliper Bracket
Use brake cleaner to spray down the caliper bracket and sliding pins. Wipe everything clean. Inspect the bracket for any damage or excessive wear. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the sliding pins before reassembly.
Keep your workspace tidy as you go. Just like you would organize a study desk before starting a project, keeping your tools and parts sorted makes the job much easier and faster.
Step 8: Install New Brake Hardware
Take your new brake hardware kit out. Install the new clips, shims, and any springs that came with it. These small parts are crucial. They prevent brake pad vibration and ensure smooth caliper movement.
Step 9: Install the New Brake Rotor
Slide the new rotor onto the hub. Make sure it sits flush against the mounting surface. If the rotor has a plastic shipping spacer, remove it first. Some rotors come with a thin layer of oil from the factory. Clean it with brake cleaner before installation.
Step 10: Install New Brake Pads
Slide the new brake pads into the caliper bracket. Make sure the wear indicators face the correct direction. Typically, the indicator points toward the front of the vehicle. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the contact points on the caliper bracket. This prevents squealing.
Step 11: Reinstall the Brake Caliper
Place the caliper over the new pads and rotor. Thread the mounting bolts by hand first. Then use your torque wrench to tighten them to the manufacturer specification. For the 2013 F150, this is typically around 28 to 35 foot-pounds. Check your owner manual for the exact number.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheels
Put the wheels back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the truck off the jack stands. Then use your torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to about 80 to 100 foot-pounds. This ensures even pressure and safe wheel attachment.
Bleeding the Brake System
After replacing the rear brakes, you need to bleed the brake system. This removes any air that may have entered the lines during the job. Air in the brakes creates a spongy pedal and reduces stopping power.
Have a helper press the brake pedal while you open the bleeder valve on the caliper. Tighten the valve before your helper releases the pedal. Repeat this process until the fluid runs clear with no bubbles. Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid as specified in your F150 owner manual.
Do this for both rear calipers. Top off the brake fluid reservoir as needed during the process. Never let the reservoir run dry, as this introduces more air into the system.
Testing Your New Brakes
Before you drive on the highway, test your brakes in a safe, empty parking lot. Pump the brake pedal a few times to build pressure. Start at low speeds and apply the brakes gently. Listen for any unusual sounds and feel for smooth, firm braking.
You may notice a slight grinding or squeaking for the first few stops. This is normal and happens as the new pads seat against the rotors. It should disappear after a few braking cycles. If the noise persists or the pedal feels soft, recheck your work and bleed the brakes again.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced DIYers make mistakes. Here are common errors to watch out for when changing rear brakes:
- Forgetting to compress the caliper piston. The piston must be pushed back in to make room for the thicker new pads. Use a C-clamp gently to avoid damaging the piston seal.
- Skipping the brake hardware. The clips and shims are not optional. They reduce vibration and extend pad life significantly.
- Over-tightening lug nuts. This can warp the rotors or strip the studs. Always use a torque wrench.
- Not bleeding the brakes properly. Air in the lines is dangerous and leads to a soft or unresponsive pedal.
- Reusing old hardware. Brake hardware is designed for single use. Reusing it leads to premature wear and noise.
Avoiding these mistakes keeps your brake job safe and long-lasting. Take your time and do not rush through the steps.
Expert Tips for Longer Brake Life
Once you have completed your brake replacement, keep these tips in mind to extend the life of your new brakes:
- Avoid riding the brakes. Keep a safe following distance so you can coast to stops rather than slamming on the brakes.
- Reduce excess weight. The heavier your truck, the harder your brakes work. Remove unnecessary items from the bed and cab.
- Check brake fluid regularly. Top it off and replace it every two years to maintain optimal braking performance.
- Inspect brakes every 10,000 miles. Catching wear early prevents costly damage to rotors and calipers.
- Use quality parts. Invest in reputable brake pads and rotors. Cheap parts wear faster and may compromise safety.
Just as choosing the right desk lamp makes a workspace better, choosing the right brake parts makes your repair job last longer and perform better.
When to Seek Professional Help
Most people can handle this brake job with basic tools and a little patience. However, there are situations where you should call a professional. If you notice a brake fluid leak, a stuck caliper, or severely warped rotors, a mechanic has the expertise to handle complex issues safely. Your safety always comes first.
Conclusion
Learning how to change rear brakes on 2013 Ford F150 trucks is a valuable skill that saves you time and money. You now know every step from preparation to testing. You understand which tools to use, what parts to inspect, and how to avoid common mistakes. With fresh rear brakes, your F150 will stop confidently and safely on every drive.
Take pride in doing this job yourself. Each successful repair builds your confidence and deepens your connection with your truck. Grab your tools, follow this guide, and enjoy the satisfaction of a job well done.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to change rear brakes on a 2013 Ford F150?
Most DIYers complete the rear brake replacement in about one and a half to two hours. If you are doing both sides and also replacing rotors, give yourself a little extra time. Working in a clean, well-lit space helps speed things up significantly.
Can I replace just one rear brake pad at a time?
You can, but it is best practice to replace both sides at the same time. Matching brake pad thickness on both sides ensures even braking and prevents the truck from pulling to one side. Replacing in pairs also saves you time on labor if you need to lift the truck twice.
What type of brake pads are best for the 2013 Ford F150?
Ceramic brake pads are a popular choice for daily driving. They produce less dust, are quieter, and last longer than semi-metallic options. If you frequently tow heavy loads, semi-metallic pads offer better heat resistance and stopping power under heavy braking conditions.
Do I need to bleed the brakes after replacing rear pads?
Yes, you should bleed the brakes after any rear brake job. Even a small amount of air in the lines can make the pedal feel spongy and reduce braking effectiveness. Bleeding takes about fifteen minutes and ensures a firm, safe pedal feel every time you press the brake.
How do I know if my brake rotors need replacing along with the pads?
Check the rotor surface for deep grooves, scoring, or visible warping. If the rotor thickness is below the minimum specification listed in your owner manual, replace it. A new rotor also provides a smooth surface for the new pads to bed in against, which improves stopping performance.
Is it safe to drive after installing new rear brakes?
Yes, but take it easy for the first 100 to 200 miles. This allows the new pads to properly seat against the rotors. Start with gentle braking and gradually increase stopping force. If you notice any unusual sounds, vibrations, or a soft pedal, pull over safely and recheck your work before driving further.
